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Shanghai
Surprise…
It's a warm rainy day in
China, I write in my travel journal from a little coffee shop watching
this foreign world scoot by. I now realize, I
have little understanding of China. In Hanoi they call this misty
precipitation, "rain dust", I like that. This rain dust is more
refreshing then it is obtrusive. It is a good atmosphere to put
introspectively my thoughts about my moods and emotions of the last few days,
while Bryan Adams supplies background vocals, I do miss Canada.
Yesterday I didn't leave Jeff's apartment in
Xiamen, a rare bout of disillusionment with traveling. I had planned to
grab the blades and explore a far off section of this interesting Chinese
city. All day the blades sat there without me leaving the confines of my
computer screen: MSN messenger, Photoshop, word, etc. I just wanted to feel
at home. I wondered if after only 65 days of travel I had lost my edge. No,
that's not it. I surmise, this disillusionment is a culmination of cultural clash:
I just needed to regroup and refortify. Thus, my hiatus in Jeff's burrow and
the kind words delivered by messenger of those I care about a million miles
away were my remedy.
All right enough mushy stuff here's the stuff!
Jeff and I were on a weekend blast to Shanghai; this is where I realized I
am truly a foreigner in China who knows nothing about this populous country.
As Jeff finds solace in one line, he exasperatedly proclaims, "don't worry
about it Greg - TIC - this is China Gregory". My first dose of
alienation came on the Saturday when I was left alone to explore Shanghai.
An amazing huge city of 18 million Chinese conundrums! It feels like any
modern Western city but that sense of confident knowing will soon crumble
with any time spent there.
It was a windy brisk spring dayin Shanghai, thermometer hovering around 12
degrees C.
I threw on a fleece, some long shorts and my Tevas
(sandals): classic Vancouverite attire, however, Toto we're not in
Vancouver anymore. After a leap of faith by grabbing a subway metro without
the comfort of English directions I found my destination: People's Square
(*we still are in communist China afterall). I took a pre-planned trek through energized
dark haired crowds, a huge pedestrian mall that goes on for 10 blocks:
character shops along the route, scenic architecture, and coupled with the awe of
being in Shanghai - it was great! Of course a well placed Starbucks would
mark my starting
gate - where my grande, non-fat , no whip, half-sweet, 165 degree mocha order
was met with a blank stare: I changed tack and simply pointed at a mocha and
motioned 'big', which was met with a relieved smile and a barrister in motion.
You cannot be in this city and not be in awe of her, it is wonderful on
so many levels: A torrid history of triads and pimps has given way to smart
dressed business people, clean streets *relative to Asia*, restored old heritage
buildings and a promise of future prosperity. Gaudy modern obelisk
sculptures use marvellous early 20th century architecture as backdrop - where
old meets new, in the most interesting way, a symbol of
China herself.
Then it happened.
Slowly at first, and eventually building to
a crescendo: a crescendo that would see me walled up in solitude for 24
hours of rehabilitation here at Jeff's Xiamen apartment. Little Chinese people streamed by me in droves,
busy, but not so much not to give me attentive looks. At first I deduced it was
my white face, round eyes, Caucasian looks. But there was an odd frequency
and determination to these looks, especially because Shanghai has a lot of
foreigners. Ruling out an open fly I noted that my face only held their
glance for a second it was my legs and feet that caused smiles and wide-eyed
gawks. I literally stopped and re-assessed my look; okay it wasn't Beijing
standard but was it deserving of 'freaks are us' gawking? Apparently it was. What
started out as mild amusement at their trepidation, graduated to avoidance,
and progressed to my downright irritation. These provocations went
from glances to
stares: from old men who would stop in the middle of their brisk gait to
ogle to middle aged Women excitedly tapping her girlfriend's shoulder to point
and giggle to brash young teens that stood to get a better look as I strolled
by... aaargh! And this went on all day, for 7 plus hours. Finally in a moment of
exasperation I blurted out, "Yes they are sandals and shorts now get over
it". He didn't, so it went and yes I'm an adult, in spite of actions.
Second
day I was out with Jeff amongst the horde and yes, it was more of the same.
I even left my Teva's at the hotel and went with just the shorts and
runners. At one point, while putting on some new socks to deal with a
burgeoning blister, Jeff observed, "you have an audience". Looking up I saw
8-10 locals gawking unabashedly while I sat in the corner of the storefront
on this Shanhai busy street putting on my new socks. Ah Gad! Yesterday's compounding resentment showed itself by a quick jump to
my feet and raising my hand in triumph, "I'm okay, I’m okay, shows over,
thanks for coming", it wasn't over. Apparently I'm not meant for
politics.
It was Monday now, back in Xiamen when the final straw collapsed; while buying some ice cream a kitten was playing
with some locals about 10 ft from me. As I stood at the freezer deciphering
Chinese scripted iced goodies I felt a tug on my Tevas. I looked down to see the kitten freshly bolted from his now
laughing comrades attacking my sandals. A weary, "Et Tu Brutus", escaped my
smiling lips.
So The Chinese staring and laughing at me Theories:
1. It's still winter, shorts
and sandals are beach summer wear
2. Legs bare; is that hair?
3. Sandals = Peasant wear
4. I am a freak
5. From my days of travel my
legs are skinny like Stu's.
No one could tell me for sure, even a cornered sales guy could only
giggle and shakes his head. Any way, I've regrouped and refortified and I'm
heading out in the light of day Xiamen. I am thankful I don't live in a country where intolerance
is so steep that if you don't conform the resulting rudeness and mocking is
considered fair behaviour. Man! You would think if there were one billion of you, you'd
promote and welcome diversity to get a break from the 'blah'ness of the
masses. Today I'm
wearing shorts and Tevas facing the masses once again: for I know, "TIC – this is
China” and China should know too, “TIG – This is Greg”
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